Mon. Apr 22nd, 2024

On a rainy London day, swarms of people crowded outside the Seymour Leisure Center, an unexpected venue for Jonathan Anderson’s JW Anderson fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. As we were guided to our seats, passing through empty spin studios and catching a faint whiff of the chlorine pool, I couldn’t help but wonder if Anderson was going to make us do stretches during the show. I settled into the large gymnasium, where photographers scurried around instead of athletes. Only then did the London sun decide to peek out through the old-school windows, a promising sign of what was to come.

As the music began, the audience was immediately captivated by the models’ striking gray hair. The sight was reminiscent of our grandmothers, but the fashion was anything but traditional. Models donned oversize gray trench coats with exaggerated silhouettes, knit ensembles that resembled luxurious pajamas, and heavy knit pieces that looked more like body armor than classic grandma attire.

Models Backstage at JW Anderson AW24

Nicky J Sims/Getty Images

As the show progressed, I found myself captivated by the contrasts in Anderson’s collection. A stark departure from the fall-winter 2024 menswear show in Milan, the fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear line was characterized by texture and structure. Jackets adorned with pockets, tasseled and pleated skirts, and bulbous knit dresses took center stage. One standout piece for me was a leather jacket with an oversized collar and twisted shape; it hugged the body perfectly, making it an essential for the gloomy British weather. Another personal favorite was the footwear — oversized shearling boots in black and brown were a versatile staple that complemented every look.

Models backstage at JW Anderson AW24

Nicky J Sims/Getty Images

Unlike previous collections, bags took a more understated approach this season. The few we saw on the runway were mid-sized and made of a combination of knit, leather, and suede. Two stood out as particularly unique: one featured a leather body with a thick rope handle in yellow, while the other sported a green handle. This juxtaposition of versatility and luxury was yet another contrast that defined the show.

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

As Anderson’s nearly 40 looks paraded down the runway during the finale, the appreciation throughout the room was palpable. The collection was distinctly JW Anderson; the epitome of wearable luxury. Indicative of the contrasting energy surrounding the show, each look was simultaneously relaxed and structured.


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