We’re all looking for bright spots where we can find them. New York Fashion Week supplied more than a few with an overarching spirit of levity and hopefulness as we enter yet another phase of the pandemic at the two-year mark. And since beauty is a reliable outlet for self-expression (and let’s be real: some catharsis, too), it’s all the more exciting to soak up the inspiring trends we can start embracing now. From glassy skin to unexpected doses of color, here are the eight trends that have emerged throughout New York Fashion Week.
Sooty, Deconstructed Gazes
The week’s standout dark eye looks all had one thing in common–an element of deconstruction. At Altuzarra, makeup artist Dick Page brushed on “melted, inky” smoky eyes for his gritty interpretation of “mermaid beauty,” while for Eckhaus Latta, Fara Homidi presented “nocturnal” eyes by way of haphazard, “kind of smashed in” pressings of onyx. At Collina Strada, each member of the colorful cast received sultry smeared eyes accented by vivid glitter. “We want it to look smudgy and smoky like you’ve been dancing all night and are throwing on mascara in the bathroom, with a little pop of color in the corner,” makeup artist Allie Smith said backstage.
Cool Red Pouts
Leave it to Khaite to remind us of the everlasting cool-girl appeal of a swipe of crimson. The deep, cool-toned red, handpicked by makeup artist Diane Kendal, was a nod to the ’90s. And then there was Tory Burch, where Kendal was at it again. The pro skipped lip liner and went straight in with a similarly icy bold red, achieving a “more modern” application with the help of a trusty lip brush. Then, at Michael Kors, reds lips and classic black smoky eyes were a glamorous combination.
Pulling one’s hair back has never been more of a striking statement. At Sergio Hudson, hairstylist Naeemah LaFond crafted show-stopping ponytails with a gold wire-embellished base and a cascade of voluminous curls. Leaning into textiles, Ulla Johnson’s sleek low ponytails were wrapped in printed fabrics from the collection by hairstylist Bob Recine, and at PatBo, Lacy Redway was busy fastening an array of different accents, from velvet ribbon to watercolor floral scarves.
While a healthy complexion remains evergreen season after season, this week introduced further nuance to gorgeous skin by way of impossibly dewy finishes. At Proenza Schouler, a generous, yet well-blended dab of balmy highlighter along the upper cheekbones brought almost bare complexions to life. Then, at Altuzarra, skincare guru Tata Harper supplied ultra-hydrating, plumping facials to give skin a “mermaid-like” effect at the designer’s request. Finally, at Ulla Johnson, makeup artist Romy Soleimani not only tapped luminous eye cream on the temples for “natural sheen,” but repurposed a satin lipstick on the highs of the cheeks toward the temples for a more radiant “high flush” finish.
Towards the end of the week, natural hair was taken to new heights. At Collina Strada, model Indira Scott received a duo of styles, her signature cascade of plaits slung into a ceiling-bound ponytail and tall intricate updo by hairstylist Mideyah Parker. Shortly after, at No Sesso, model Sade Keinu strutted down the runway with a sky-high, sculptural updo that was nothing short of show-stopping.
Off-Kilter Eye Hues
There will always be a time and a place for classic black, but this season offered a wealth of ways to get creative with unexpected eye shades. One of the most polarizing hues in the mix was blood red. It cropped up at LaQuan Smith, where makeup artist Sheika Daley gave Julia Fox’s bold cat eyes a “red backlit effect” with saturated strokes along the brow bones. At Dion Lee, pro Frankie Boyd administered wing-like blocks of crimson to coordinate with matching braided knits. On the other end of the color spectrum were the washed-out green pastels at Gabriela Hearst, and then Maryam Nassir Zadeh, where Homidi presented washes of “taupe, acid yellow, and moon purple” on the eyes.
Slicked, Shiny Strands
Slicked, shiny strands came in many textures and shapes. While at Carolina Herrera, smooth, high-gloss lengths were pulled back into elegantly taut updos, Bevza and Peter Do showcased the beauty of slick backs with loose, wind-swept lengths. Then, of course, there were the sideswept, near-sopping lengths at Altuzarra, which made good on the designer’s request for a distinct “coming out of the ocean” effect.
Deep, Dark Lips
Tapping into the deeper, darker hues the ’90s are known for but with a distinctly modern feel, at Victor Glemaud makeup artist Raisa Flowers traced lips with jet-black lip liner, underscoring it with a touch of mocha brown for an ombré effect, while at Eckhaus Latta and Puppets and Puppets, select pouts were saturated in moody bordeaux tones, touches of shine adding depth and definition.
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