Thu. Mar 28th, 2024

On a rainy November night last fall, the Brooklyn Museum celebrated the American opening of “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime,” the first retrospective to celebrate the idiosyncratic world of the late French couturier. Marc Jacobs posed with Laverne Cox, Mugler muses Stella Ellis and Connie Fleming paraded the exhibition halls, and Casey Cadwallader—the house’s current creative director—escorted Kylie Jenner, who wore a waist-snatching corseted black gown from Mugler’s fall 1995 couture collection. A familiar smell wafted through the crowd, growing stronger as you approached the center of the exhibition, where the designer’s olfactory achievements, most notably his 1992 triumph, Angel, were on view: Even encased in glass, the iconic—and polarizing—eau de parfum that forever changed the fragrance world made itself known.

To have lived through the ’90s is to know Angel’s cloying, unmistakable trail, which smelled nothing like the decade’s more ubiquitous aquatic offerings, fruity florals, and room-clearing ’80s-era holdovers. “Angel broke all the rules,” Cadwallader says of the synthesized praline, cotton candy, and red berry concoction that created an entirely new category. Dubbed the first “gourmand” fragrance, the collaboration with perfumer Olivier Cresp was also heavy on patchouli, making it at once sensual and saccharine. This month, the house of Mugler will debut Angel Elixir, a modern riff on the original that aims to broaden its appeal while staying true to a hyper-performative DNA dotted with queer nightlife characters and a fetishized femininity.

A celestial look from Mugler’s fall 1984 collection.

Photo: Getty Images

Elixir doesn’t totally abandon the original Angel, insists Hunter Schafer, the face of the new scent. “I think of them as sisters,” elaborates the 24-year-old Euphoria star. “Hunter checks so many different boxes on so many levels,” Cadwallader says of Schafer’s range, which makes her the perfect bridge between the original “otherworldly, godlike” Angel muses, including models Jerry Hall and Amy Wesson, and the newer authenticity-first generation. “My demeanor changes,” Schafer says of spritzing on Elixir, comparing its infusions of sandalwood and a natural jasmine extract—both noticeably absent from the original—to wearing a pair of heels, or having a fresh set of nails.

At 27, I have both a vivid memory of the old Angel and a Gen Z affinity with the spirit of the new version, so I wore both to the Vogue office, on alternating days, to compare them. While the original eau de parfum stoked nostalgia, especially among our senior editors (and the occasional lingering subway rider), it also smelled “a little ladylike,” according to a young colleague. Elixir, meanwhile, was the favorite with an even younger colleague. It smells “woody,” she said; and “not like it’s meant to be a female fragrance.” (That last bit is intentional, says Cadwallader. “It has this feistiness that is past being gender-specific.”)

The new fragrance arrives in a dark blue version of the original five-pointed-star flacon. Courtesy of Mugler Fragrances.

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